![]() ![]() If you really want to answer your question i can say that there are 3 types of riders: I'm sure that you win some power lower than 14.000 rpm, much lower in fact. Ok, i'm don't agree what you have written until now. But if you want power on a slip-on, PCIII, air filter bike, do the trick and you will be pretty happy. Hope that my explanation will help some guys to understand better what is happening there and pull they're own conclusions. So it is very hard to answer with YES/NO to this question. In fact, if you want to make some real power, you need to lean things out. This is not something bad at all, you can ride the bike all her life this way and nothing will melt. They will get scared first time when they will pass 7500 rpm.Īlso fueling is a story here, because as i stated above, cyl 2&3 run leaner. So putting 4 short ones, will have 4 pistons doing some power after 7500 rpm which is pretty cool on a race track or for the guys who really know how to keep the bike in power, but for begineers is not very much. If you look in a stock bike on a dyno sheet, you will see some dips exactly where the long stacks finish doing they're job and shorter one start they're. The idea behind the 2 long and 2 short stacks is to have 2 cylinders that are making they're best until 6500-6800 and 2 cylinders to pull from 7500 to 12000rpm. The stock ecu is programmed to give a little less fuel after 7500 to cylinder 2 and 3 because in stock form there is not enough fresh air. I installed 4 exhaust temperature probes in my bike and seen this. So with this, you will win some power in the high band especially because piston 2 and 3 run a little leaner uptop and that makes power. People use the 4 short ones because this mod is the easiest. This engine is very sensible on the velocity stacks used. My personal decision:::: Leaving the v-stacks alone, getting a custom tune and closing up the intake box for another 20,000 miles. I would actually rather Not do this mod and maintain piece of mind by having not jerry-rigged by intake system.i would say that is well worth 1whp.Īs for the factory pro v-stacks.they run about 200 bones and claim to improve overall hp, but going by what michael said, i don't know how much of it is inflated and how much is true. For a racer, this may help, but for 80% of RR riders like me who just go on the street and an occasional trackday this mod is almost useless, and 3bhp is about 1whp.woohoo. Heres the doesn't come on until 13,700 RPM. Stacks in general aren't that beneficial to these bikes.and dyno results proved that the OEM mod for all shorty stacks produced 3 bhp on the dyno with a tune. Well the only person who gave a decent answer was michaelwood.so i decided to do more of my own research.heres what i have come up with. I had bought the bike with all those mods on there so likewise I don't know which had the greatest effect from installing them one at a time. ![]() But since I took 3 mods off at once I can't pinpoint which had the greatest effect. I took all of the mods off at one time & sold them and it was a turtle after. (doing the OEM stack mod might be worth it to you, but ideally you would tune each cylinder individually for the mod)įWIW though I had them on my R6, along with slide stops, K&N, and the difference in throttle response was huge, and horsepower was noticeable. Better to spend your money on tires, machining your rear rotor, ram air tubes, etc. When I get an aprilia RSV4 that has enough room I'll get the best V stacks I can buy, but with inline 4's we simply don't have enough room to make it worth paying $200 for an aftermarket set of V stacks that are barely better than stock. Not enough space to meet both of these requirements. ![]() The ideal size is three times the diameter of the pipe it's feeding into. ![]()
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